Split Rear Axle Boot Installation
by Ron van Seventer / firstname.lastname@example.org
View the Split Rear Axle
Boot Overview page
- The best position for the axle is about level. If you have a friendly
shop or gas station that will let you use a rack (with ramps!) then great.
If not, back the car onto portable ramps and crawl! (Or, if you don't feel
comfortable doing this, jack up one side at a time, placing the floor jack
under the trailing arms, and sliding the ramps under the tires.) I suggest
not using the floor jack or jack stands at all in the job of changing the
- Drain most of the gear oil.
- Remove the old boot.
- Prepare the new boot: rough up the mating surfaces of the splice so
that the glue will adhere. I use a file.
- Position the boot so that the bulky part of the bellows is on top.
(I think this puts the split facing the rear, right?) Try to keep the mating
surfaces free of dirt and oil.
- Glue the mating surfaces, just at each end near where the clamps are.
I use Permatex brand blue RTV in the big tube.
- Install the clamps. I think I've positioned the tightening clamps
on top, away from the splice so that the mating surfaces will not crawl and
bind while tightening.
- Glue the rest of the mating surfaces, and install the staples. They
go at each of the outermost ridges ("peaks" as you say) of the bellows. I
don't think we stapled the "valleys." It might be because it may be too hard.
Also, it might not be considered a good idea because the inside "valley"
staples might cause abrasions in the boot. Who knows?
Created July 25, 1997
Return to the Ponton Workshop