Mercedes-Benz Ponton Oil and Filter Change

Preface

This page chronicles an oil change on a 1957 Mercedes-Benz Type W121 190 Ponton sedan with a 121.923 gasoline engine. Dear readers, the 121.923 engines (1,897cc) were original to the Type W120 180a and 180b Ponton sedans, i.e. this car had an engine transplant at some point in its history.

Regarding diesel engines OM 636 (Type W120 180D, 180Db sedans) and OM 621 (Type W120 180Dc, W121 190D, W121 190Db sedans) – the location and orientation (horizontal or vertical) of the oil filter housing may differ from what is shown here. Check the owner's manual or workshop service manual to verify the location of the oil filter housing on these models. 

Otherwise, the general process is applicable to all Ponton models. 

Ammendments

• Supplement 1 / Type W180 220S Oil Filter Canister / June 3, 2005
• O-ring Warning / August 5, 2014
• Supplement 2 / Mercedes-Benz Ponton Oil Filter Part Numbers / January 15, 2016

Introduction

Many readers may already know how to change the oil in their Mercedes-Benz Ponton. It is typically one of the first maintenance jobs we learn on a car because it does not require much time, money, specialized knowledge, or tools, and it helps familiarize us with the vehicle. This webpage illustrates the basic steps in performing an important job. If you have not yet tried changing the oil, this page is for you. 

Over an extended period, routine oil changes are one of the best ways to prevent engine problems. The interval between oil changes can vary depending on driving habits. Suggested intervals are 3,000 to 5,000 miles (approximately 4,000 km to 8,000 km) for a car that is driven regularly, all year long. If the car is driven infrequently, and sits in a garage most of the time, it is best to change the oil every year, regardless of the miles driven. 

Mercedes-Benz Pontons may be slightly different from other cars you have worked on, and have some unique features... 

• The oil filter is a replaceable paper element that fits in a permanent metal canister, which bolts to the lower portion of the engine. 

• There are two different oil filter designs used on the Ponton models. The first is a paper filter element with a wire screen element. The wire screen element requires cleaning every time the oil and filter are changed.^[1] This article features the later style paper filter element (no wire screen).^[2] If your car is equipped with the early style oil filter with the wire screen element, be sure to clarify this with your parts vendor because a smaller paper filter element is required with the wire screen element.

• Removing the oil pan drain plug requires a 14 mm hex (Allen) wrench. The wrench was supplied with the original factory tool kit, and may also be available at automotive specialty stores and tool vendors. ^[3]

• Since the Mercedes-Benz Ponton vehicles are quite old and perhaps a little rusty underneath, you will need to have a set of ramps or a floor jack to elevate the front of the car while working under it. The original jack that came with the car is probably of little use because the jack points on the body may be structurally weakened by a less than perfect chassis. If a floor jack is used, then you will also need a set of jack stands to place under the car in the event the jack fails. People living in earthquake zones may want to bolster the car with two tires (mounted on the rims) stacked under several points to increase the safety factor. 

Have These Things Available

• Owner's manual – to reference exact amount of oil required
• Maintenance record – to record your oil changes
• Floor jack or ramps. If you have a lift or pit in your garage, you probably do not need to read this page. 
• Jack stands for supplemental support should the floor jack fail
• New motor oil. See owner's manual for specific amount
• New oil filter – many brands include new copper crush ring (oil pan drain plug), aluminum seal (filter canister bolt), and rubber O-ring
• 22 mm copper crush ring – for oil pan drain plug (verify with vendor that it comes with the filter)
• Aluminum seal (washer) for filter canister (verify with vendor that it comes with the filter)
• 14 mm hex (Allen) wrench for oil drain plug.^[3] 
• 17 mm box wrench (or socket) for oil filter canister bolt 
• Roll of paper towels (shop grade)
• Drain pan for catching the used oil
• Funnel for refilling engine with new oil
• Sunny day, temperature about 72° F (22° C), light breeze, few clouds

Oil Change Process

Bring the engine up to normal operating temperature so any impurities will be in suspension when the old oil is drained off. Drive the car up on ramps to gain easy access to the oil drain plug and oil filter canister. Place the car in first gear and place a block of wood behind a rear wheel to ensure the car will not roll off the ramps while you are under it.   

Figure 1. The "patient" – up on ramps with fresh oil, tools and filters

A floor jack can also be used. In this case, jack the left front of the car up so the side of the engine where the oil filter is located (the same side for both left hand drive, and right hand drive cars) will be easier to get under. Be absolutely sure you place a jack stand under the car so if the floor jack fails you will be safe. Never work under a car that is only supported by a floor jack. 

Figure 2. Oil, filter, and tools

This photo shows the motor oil (Castrol 20W-50), new oil filter with rubber O-ring and seals (supplied with the oil filter), 14 mm hex (Allen) wrench (for oil drain plug) and a 17 mm wrench (for oil the filter canister). A 17 mm socket wrench may also be used on the filter canister.

Figure 3. Oil drain pan

Place a drain pan under the car to catch the old oil. When finished, take the container to a service/recycling center so the oil is disposed of in an environmentally safe way. Do not dump the used motor oil on the ground, into a sewer drain, or down a woodchuck hole.

Figure 4. Oil filter, crush ring, seals, and rubber O-ring

Figure 4 shows the paper oil filter element, which slides into a metal canister (see Figure 9). The metal canister is a permanent fixture on the car, and is re-used each time the filter is replaced. 

Figure 5. Two 14 mm hex wrenches, a 22 mm copper crush ring (for the oil pan drain plug), and the oil pan drain plug

This photo shows two different style 14 mm hex (Allen) wrenches. The smaller one (top) is from an original Mercedes-Benz Ponton tool kit, and the larger "L" shaped one is from a general purpose automotive supply store. The larger, "L" shaped hex wrench will work well on the oil pan drain plug because there is unlimited clearance for the tool beneath the car. However, because of tighter clearance between parts, the original 14 mm hex wrench will be needed if the transmission fluid is changed. Also note the 22 mm copper crush ring, and oil pan drain plug. The ring is usually supplied with the oil filter, and should be replaced each time the oil and filter are changed. Verify with the vendor that the crush ring is included with the oil filter, or ask them to include one. They can be purchased from various internet sources.

Figure 6. Engine compartment

Remove the oil filler cap to achieve maximum flow into the drain pan when the plug is removed.   

Figure 7. Oil pan drain plug

Position yourself under the front of the car, and place the drain pan under the plug. Use the 14 mm hex (Allen) wrench to remove the drain plug. The drain plug is loosened by turning it counter-clockwise. If you have difficulty removing the plug, it may be over tightened. In that case, try fashioning a breaker bar (to increase leverage) by putting a section of pipe over the end of the wrench. Once the plug is removed, let the oil drain for five minutes or until the flow is reduced to just a trickle. Then replace the drain plug along with the new copper crush ring (22 mm). New drain plugs are available from the usual sources. See the Links page for detail.

Figure 8. Oil filter canister bolt head (from under car - looking up)

Get the roll of paper shop towels ready! To gain access to the oil filter canister, position yourself under the front of the car and slide far enough back – until you see the canister, or slide under the left side of the car and move far enough to the center so you can get the 17 mm wrench on the bolt at the bottom of the canister. Then position the drain pan under the oil filter canister and proceed to loosen the 17 mm bolt. When it starts coming loose, the remaining oil will start to flow (all over). When the canister comes completely loose, just let it rest on the steering and suspension components until it is finished dripping. Then remove it from the top side of the engine compartment. If you want to remove the canister from the bottom, you need to tip it, which spills more oil. When lying on the ground holding the canister, the oil only goes in one direction – up your arm. Removing the canister through the top of the engine compartment is much neater, you'll agree.

Figure 9. Metal oil filter canister, bolt, aluminum seal, copper washer, and filter (later style).

This is second version of the permanent metal oil filter canister (reference Table 9 Part #19b below) along with the (17 mm head) bolt, the rubber O-ring, and paper filter element. Replace the aluminum seal for the bolt, and the O-ring seal at the top of the canister. Most filters (Mann, Hengst, etc.) include a set of new seals and rubber O-ring. Also note the paper towel in this photo. You will need plenty of these on hand before starting the job. Insert the new paper filter element into the canister, and install it on the car. Crawling under the car from the front affords the greatest physical and visual access to where the canister and bolt are installed. The bolt seems barely long enough, and holding the canister in place while threading the bolt can be a challenging maneuver.

Supplement 1 / Type W180 220S Oil Filter Canister

Figure 10. Type 220S oil filter canister

This photo details the top section ("discharge cap") of the early permanent metal oil filter canister (Table 9 Part #19a) from a 1958 Type W180 220S sedan.

Parts Visible in this Photo (above)

• Table 9 Part #19a - housing (canister)
• Table 9 Part #21 - discharge cap
• Table 9 Part #23 - sealing ring
• Table 9 Part #22a - hex nut 14 x 1. 5 

Figure 11. Type 220S oil filter parts (see Table 9)

Parts Needed for a W180 (Type 220a, 220S) Oil Change

• Table 9 Part #22, Filter element: 000 184 22 25
• Table 9 Part #23, Sealing ring (for oil filter housing): 181 997 03 41
• Table 9 Part #24, Sealing ring (for hex head bolt): 007 603 010 107
• Table 1 Part #39, Sealing ring (for screw plug): 915 035 000 025
• These individual parts are typically supplied with the filter elements (Hengst and/or Mann brands) as a complete kit. See the Links page for vendors of the filter elements. 

Note: Tables 1 and 9 were both from...

Mercedes-Benz Type 220S
Spare Parts List
Edition D, January 1960
Stuttgart-Untertürkheim, Germany
Pages 2, 22, 124-131

 Table 1. Engine Housing.
Part 39: copper crush ring. Part 40: oil pan drain plug.

Table 9. Oil Pump.
Part 23: rubber O-ring. Part 24: aluminum seal for oil filter canister.

Finishing Up

Footnotes